In 1968, Patek Philippe released the Golden Ellipse.

Debuting eight years before the iconic Nautilus, the Ellipse — with its distinctive oval shape — was unlike anything else in Patek Philippe’s catalogs. In time the Ellipse line became emblematic of its era for design and signaled an elevated level of taste, particularly given the popularity of function-first tool watches that defined the 1960s for many.

In the intervening years, the Ellipse and many of its contemporaries fell out of favor with collectors who preferred purpose-built steel chronographs and divers that were closely associated with tales of adventure and exploration. Many of these wonderful, design-forward timepieces were thus lost in the recesses of vaults or sock drawers — or worse — melted down for their gold value.

Only recently have we seen the start of an evolution in the mindset of contemporary collectors — a groundswell of appreciation for more artistic expressions of timekeeping is occurring at this very moment, and forgotten gems of the ‘70s and ‘80s are once again being discovered and appreciated for the works of horological art that they truly are.

This example, a Reference 3738/115J, features a 36mm X 31mm 18K yellow gold elliptical case with an unsigned crown, a smooth bezel, and a beautiful blue 'sigma' dial with applied 'stick' indices and hands. Paired to an incredible 18K yellow gold integrated bracelet with a signed clasp, it’s an excellent, representative midcentury design. 

Absolutely fantastic.

Watches such as this one are delightful timepieces that stand out brilliantly in a room full of steel sports watches and signal an elevated understanding of what watchmaking can — and perhaps should — be.